“It was the toughest decision we’ve had to make, ” Anna Wintour, the publisher of Vogue, said at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award dinner on Mon night.
She was speaking of choosing a winner among the 10 finalists - the milliner, a jeweler, a shoemaker, and the designers of a men’s wear collection, a knit line, two women’s wear lines, a handbag line, the sunglasses line and a denim line. And while the implication was clear that this difficulty was due to the level of talent, it was hard not to wonder how you actually begin to compare such disparate businesses.
How would the judges decide? How do they? We were on the edge of our seats, even if some of us were scratching our own heads.
And the winner of the award from the Council of Fashion Designers of The united states and Vogue was…
Paul Andrew, the maker associated with fancy shoes. He received $300, 000 and a yearlong mentorship.
The two runners-up were Eva Zuckerman of Eva Fehren, a jeweler, and Ryan Rocher, who does knits. Each received $100, 000 and mentoring.
The result was not a legitimate surprise. Mr. Andrew, who is something of an industry secret - he has created shoes for numerous big brands such as Donna Karan, Vera Wang as well as Agnona - but who introduced his own brand only two years ago, had been widely tipped to be the winner. He already sells to such stores because Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman, and has a defined, and refined, aesthetic, which includes uptown classicism with a bit of healthy edge.
Ditto Ms. Zuckerman, who is filled in a variety of Barneys’ stores throughout the United States.
The dark horse was Ms. Rocher, the outsider in the group. She is a young mother who grew up in Florida, works out of her house in upstate New York, loves pink and offers to a group of independent boutiques around the world.
The big upset, however , was Wes Gordon, who is often called a baby Oscar de la Renta and was in his second circular as a finalist. He already has accounts such as Neiman Marcus, Kirna Zabete and Hudson’s Bay.
Of course , it’s possible that being relatively advanced straight down the retail road may have hurt Mr. Gordon, and that judges saw he might not need the help as much as some of his fellow contestants.
In any case, the variety of the final three highlighted the competing imperatives in this kind of award.
Certain, the award is about supporting and growing new businesses, but it is also about publicizing the breadth and depth of the coming American talent pool to the outdoors world. (Mr. Andrew was born in Britain, but I guess he qualified simply because his business is based in New York. )
Not to mention promoting the fairy tale associated with discovery and bringing talent to light. After all, they did make a TV show from the event.
It will be on the cable channel Ovation starting on Wednesday.
View the original article here
She was speaking of choosing a winner among the 10 finalists - the milliner, a jeweler, a shoemaker, and the designers of a men’s wear collection, a knit line, two women’s wear lines, a handbag line, the sunglasses line and a denim line. And while the implication was clear that this difficulty was due to the level of talent, it was hard not to wonder how you actually begin to compare such disparate businesses.
How would the judges decide? How do they? We were on the edge of our seats, even if some of us were scratching our own heads.
And the winner of the award from the Council of Fashion Designers of The united states and Vogue was…
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| Paul Andrew at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Honor dinner in New York. |
The two runners-up were Eva Zuckerman of Eva Fehren, a jeweler, and Ryan Rocher, who does knits. Each received $100, 000 and mentoring.
The result was not a legitimate surprise. Mr. Andrew, who is something of an industry secret - he has created shoes for numerous big brands such as Donna Karan, Vera Wang as well as Agnona - but who introduced his own brand only two years ago, had been widely tipped to be the winner. He already sells to such stores because Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman, and has a defined, and refined, aesthetic, which includes uptown classicism with a bit of healthy edge.
Ditto Ms. Zuckerman, who is filled in a variety of Barneys’ stores throughout the United States.
The dark horse was Ms. Rocher, the outsider in the group. She is a young mother who grew up in Florida, works out of her house in upstate New York, loves pink and offers to a group of independent boutiques around the world.
The big upset, however , was Wes Gordon, who is often called a baby Oscar de la Renta and was in his second circular as a finalist. He already has accounts such as Neiman Marcus, Kirna Zabete and Hudson’s Bay.
Of course , it’s possible that being relatively advanced straight down the retail road may have hurt Mr. Gordon, and that judges saw he might not need the help as much as some of his fellow contestants.
In any case, the variety of the final three highlighted the competing imperatives in this kind of award.
Certain, the award is about supporting and growing new businesses, but it is also about publicizing the breadth and depth of the coming American talent pool to the outdoors world. (Mr. Andrew was born in Britain, but I guess he qualified simply because his business is based in New York. )
Not to mention promoting the fairy tale associated with discovery and bringing talent to light. After all, they did make a TV show from the event.
It will be on the cable channel Ovation starting on Wednesday.
View the original article here
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