Provide Privacy and Style with a Stenciled Window Treatment as well as Save a fortune by creating your personal graphic, modern window cornice.
One of the most shocking aspects about buying a home can be exploring the insane cost of custom window treatments. I stepped in to help my newlyweds, Chelsea as well as Scott, with their first home's kitchen window. They wanted to keep the light, however lose the nosy neighbor next door. Our solution: a modern, custom window cornice. On a budget of $200, we designed and built a simple frame in half each day.
Make a Window Cornice Box
Let see Laurie March shows how to make an easy stenciled cornice box for a window.
Related: Designer curtains: Pattern Faux Silk Curtains
Related: Vintage Cotton Velvet Curtains Collection
Related: How to Make Your Curtain Fabric Romance
Get Started: Build, Stencil and Mount
Measure the window
Measure the window opening you want to cover. Your façade is going to be slightly wider than the window. Add at least 2" in width to make it larger than your own window frame.
Measurements will vary depending on your window width. The actual window we're working with was 52" wide, so we cut each of our long horizontally pieces 54" to span the window molding. Because we wanted to leave lots of light in the space, we measured and cut two vertical frame items each at 24". We chose not to cover the entire window to allow for much more light in the kitchen. The area we covered blocks the neighbor's sight line.
Place the 54" pieces outside the 24" pieces, forming a rectangular shape. Before screwing the two boards together, apply wood glue to the joint. This can help all wood working projects stay together longer.
Having a power drill, screw the frame pieces together into a rectangle using one ¼” wood screws. Two screws for each of the four corners, held our own project together nicely.
Pro Tip: Did you know that a 1 x 3" board isn't very actually 1" x 3" in dimension? When boards are first tough sawn, they're 1 x 3" but by the time we get them, they're 3/4" x 2-1/2".
Apply a thin coat of primer towards the rectangular frame, and the front and edges of the plywood piece you'll be affixing. This is so the primer and wood glue can dry before moving on.
An insider secret I use on smaller projects would be to have wood cuts made at a big box home improvement store. We had our plywood reduce to size at 54" by 25. 5".
After applying wood stuff to the face of the frame, carefully place the plywood on top of your rectangle. Drill pilot gaps, if desired. Then fasten the plywood to the frame with screws as well as apply spackle to fill in the holes.
Get the Stencil On
Before you stencil, decide where you'll want your stencil to start and prevent. Symmetry is very pleasing to the eye.
If your background color isn't completely dried out, take a blow dryer to it. Hold it at least 8" off the surface on moderate heat and move around a lot so you don't get the paint too hot since it dries. Don't stencil until your background color is all the way dry. All of us cheated a bit and used primer as our background color, which has a fantastic contrast with the full gloss charcoal gray stencil color.
Apply repositionable spray mount to the back of your stencil and place it on your dried out painted surface. The spray mount will help your stencil stay in place as you paint. Push down firmly on it with your hand or a dust free towel to make sure paint won't creep behind your stencil. Don't skip this step.
The roller works great for this, but after you dip it into your paint roll away all the excess paint onto a clean paper towel. The first coat of the stencil should be very light and your brush almost dry of paint. You are able to follow up with another light coat as many times as desired, but too much paint is certainly the villain of any good stencil project.
Some stencils, like this one, are meant to repeat, so carefully move the stencil over and roll upon more paint to complete the pattern. Look for a stencil that has marks to guide you in order to for easy repositioning.
Mounting the Window Treatment
This particular frame is pretty light, so we were able to mount it to our window frame with 2 three-hole L-brackets with ease.
View the original article here
One of the most shocking aspects about buying a home can be exploring the insane cost of custom window treatments. I stepped in to help my newlyweds, Chelsea as well as Scott, with their first home's kitchen window. They wanted to keep the light, however lose the nosy neighbor next door. Our solution: a modern, custom window cornice. On a budget of $200, we designed and built a simple frame in half each day.
Make a Window Cornice Box
Let see Laurie March shows how to make an easy stenciled cornice box for a window.
Related: Designer curtains: Pattern Faux Silk Curtains
Related: Vintage Cotton Velvet Curtains Collection
Related: How to Make Your Curtain Fabric Romance
Get Started: Build, Stencil and Mount
Measure the window
Measure the window opening you want to cover. Your façade is going to be slightly wider than the window. Add at least 2" in width to make it larger than your own window frame.
Measurements will vary depending on your window width. The actual window we're working with was 52" wide, so we cut each of our long horizontally pieces 54" to span the window molding. Because we wanted to leave lots of light in the space, we measured and cut two vertical frame items each at 24". We chose not to cover the entire window to allow for much more light in the kitchen. The area we covered blocks the neighbor's sight line.
Pro Tip: Did you know that a 1 x 3" board isn't very actually 1" x 3" in dimension? When boards are first tough sawn, they're 1 x 3" but by the time we get them, they're 3/4" x 2-1/2".
After applying wood stuff to the face of the frame, carefully place the plywood on top of your rectangle. Drill pilot gaps, if desired. Then fasten the plywood to the frame with screws as well as apply spackle to fill in the holes.
Before you stencil, decide where you'll want your stencil to start and prevent. Symmetry is very pleasing to the eye.
If your background color isn't completely dried out, take a blow dryer to it. Hold it at least 8" off the surface on moderate heat and move around a lot so you don't get the paint too hot since it dries. Don't stencil until your background color is all the way dry. All of us cheated a bit and used primer as our background color, which has a fantastic contrast with the full gloss charcoal gray stencil color.
The roller works great for this, but after you dip it into your paint roll away all the excess paint onto a clean paper towel. The first coat of the stencil should be very light and your brush almost dry of paint. You are able to follow up with another light coat as many times as desired, but too much paint is certainly the villain of any good stencil project.
Mounting the Window Treatment
This particular frame is pretty light, so we were able to mount it to our window frame with 2 three-hole L-brackets with ease.
View the original article here
No comments :
Post a Comment