Fashion Review: At Paris Fashion Week, Jean Paul Gaultier, Céline, Comme des Garçon
PARIS, FRANCE - The curtain arrived down, literally, on Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready-to-wear profession amid a shower associated with gold spangles raining through the sky. It was such a main fashion moment, it outweighed even George Clooney’s wedding ceremony.
A gaggle of models in whose ages ranged from the normal twentysomethings to the recently popular (Coco Rocha, Karlie Kloss) and the famous of sometime ago (French television stars within their 70s and 80s) shook their stuff on the phase of the Rex Theater, Paris’s largest and most storied movie theater house, strutting through a short tour of Mr. Gaultier’s greatest sartorial hits through marinière stripes to pinstripe suiting, cone-bra corset gowns, crystalline Americana and gender-bending Smokings, cast as a Overlook Gaultier competition and “hosted” by the actress and Gaultier acolyte Rossy de Laureles and the Paris-based Brit Alex Taylor.
There were boys traveling bicycles and spoofs associated with famed fashion editors who supported Mr. Gaultier in the career, and it had the actual designer’s longtime celebrity buddies and collaborators Catherine Deneuve, Boy George and Farida Khelfa laughing and entertaining in their velvet seats, together with the designers Alber Elbaz, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang and Jeremy Scott.
At Céline, the designer Phoebe Philo sent out 1970s
floral bias-cut dresses sliced high on one side to reveal
trousers in a contrasting print.Françis Guillot/Agence France-Presse
It was a happy end to one part of a long story (Mr. Gaultier will continue with his couture line). How many of us get to stage manage our own semi-exits?
Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons said
she had been thinking of ‘‘blood and roses,
but not a pretty rose.'' Nowfashion
However the message was about how you can transform a nominally unfortunate occasion - retirement, a minimum of from the most visible portion of fashion - into one noticeable by joy. A reminder, in case any were needed, this kind of transubstantiation is what style does. Or should do, anyhow, when it is doing its work.
un Takahashi’s Undercover show was a tour de force of Swan Lake storytelling in 51 looks.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
Strange as it may sound, sometimes whether or not you can actually wear it, or would want to, is besides the point.
At Junya Watanabe, circles were flattened, plasticized, layered and Crayola-bright.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
So backstage after Céline, the designer Phoebe Philo said, “I was interested in how edited the world is, and how edited fashion is, and I am, and what would happen if we were less edited? We have this obsession with certainty and the need to know the outcome of everything. But what if we try to just let it be?”
High-water flares ironed on a knife edge; knit tank dresses, the skirts kicking out in three tiers of fringing; neat navy coats secured by three gold locks in place of buttons down the front; and 1970s floral bias-cut dresses sliced high on one side to reveal trousers in a contrasting print is her answer
Yohji Yamamoto had sex on the mind for spring.Nowfashion
her show of swirling, structured volumes and red leather, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons said she had been thinking of “blood and roses, but not a pretty rose. Everyone feels so heavy about things these days, I wanted to do roses in a more profound way.”
There were slouchy silk trouser suits in
Haider Ackermann’s collection. Nowfashion
Crimson strips of leather dripped from trench coats, whorls of frills in silk and silk formed 2 curving spheres on the upper body and legs, a coat of tubular swirls had been stippled by splatter as well as hoop skirts were basket-woven from chiffon. For sanctuary from it all there were significantly hooded capes, and the internet result wasn’t Carrie in the prom, but rather the floral at the end of a gun. Within gore, Ms. Kawakubo experienced found grace.
As it occurred, ruffles also played a significant part in Haider Ackermann’s collection, though it was the bittersweet symphony of a various kind, from the dove grey chiffon dusters, insubstantial being an English fog, to the lazy silk trouser suits within ballet-shoe pink and washed-out army green halter surfaces belted into shape using their edges curving sinuously upward and around, often balance by the addition of white-colored vinyl pants or ultra-mini skorts. And they showed up once again in various forms in Jun Takahashi’s Undercover show, the tour de force associated with Swan Lake storytelling within 51 looks.
It started with sugar-sweet crinoline Change dresses that segued in to tutus, milkmaids in tree-trunk striated moiré skirts as well as forest green and white-colored tops, and principessas within neat little frocks along with sporting scenes from Hieronymus Bosch’s “The Garden associated with Earthly Delights, ” after that to biker jackets on top of full tulle skirts along with prints of many feathers, as well as ended with an all-black ebony-winged motorcycle gang.
Oh, as well as thrown in the middle there was several candy-colored trenches and anoraks and other sorts of protective greatcoats with cameo inserts associated with moving video screens within the chest or sleeves, simply because, well … life is a movie? Whatever the answer, it was amazing.
Also relevant: Who can truly dispute the fact that in the limitless battle between Odile as well as Odette, the black swan is currently winning?
Meanwhile, Yohji Yamamoto had sex within the mind (well, it is the everlasting subject) and negligee gowns on the runway, layered 1 atop the other and slipping off the body, not to mention filigree knits (good) and precious metal leather (discordant). And in a selection based almost entirely upon geometry, Junya Watanabe used Kandinsky’s color theory, that paired form and the psychological associations of color, as well as tested it on clothing. Or at least their simalcrums.
Groups were flattened, plasticized, split and Crayola-bright; cut up as well as reconfigured into a shift made from three-dimensional diamonds; combined with thready stripes and T-shirts imprinted à la jean coat; and reformatted into triangles and hexagons and parallelograms, one form fracturing in to the other in a kaleidoscope associated with shifting shapes.
View the original article here
PARIS, FRANCE - The curtain arrived down, literally, on Jean Paul Gaultier’s ready-to-wear profession amid a shower associated with gold spangles raining through the sky. It was such a main fashion moment, it outweighed even George Clooney’s wedding ceremony.
A gaggle of models in whose ages ranged from the normal twentysomethings to the recently popular (Coco Rocha, Karlie Kloss) and the famous of sometime ago (French television stars within their 70s and 80s) shook their stuff on the phase of the Rex Theater, Paris’s largest and most storied movie theater house, strutting through a short tour of Mr. Gaultier’s greatest sartorial hits through marinière stripes to pinstripe suiting, cone-bra corset gowns, crystalline Americana and gender-bending Smokings, cast as a Overlook Gaultier competition and “hosted” by the actress and Gaultier acolyte Rossy de Laureles and the Paris-based Brit Alex Taylor.
There were boys traveling bicycles and spoofs associated with famed fashion editors who supported Mr. Gaultier in the career, and it had the actual designer’s longtime celebrity buddies and collaborators Catherine Deneuve, Boy George and Farida Khelfa laughing and entertaining in their velvet seats, together with the designers Alber Elbaz, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang and Jeremy Scott.
At Céline, the designer Phoebe Philo sent out 1970s
floral bias-cut dresses sliced high on one side to reveal
trousers in a contrasting print.Françis Guillot/Agence France-Presse
It was a happy end to one part of a long story (Mr. Gaultier will continue with his couture line). How many of us get to stage manage our own semi-exits?
Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons said
she had been thinking of ‘‘blood and roses,
but not a pretty rose.'' Nowfashion
However the message was about how you can transform a nominally unfortunate occasion - retirement, a minimum of from the most visible portion of fashion - into one noticeable by joy. A reminder, in case any were needed, this kind of transubstantiation is what style does. Or should do, anyhow, when it is doing its work.
un Takahashi’s Undercover show was a tour de force of Swan Lake storytelling in 51 looks.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
Strange as it may sound, sometimes whether or not you can actually wear it, or would want to, is besides the point.
At Junya Watanabe, circles were flattened, plasticized, layered and Crayola-bright.Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
So backstage after Céline, the designer Phoebe Philo said, “I was interested in how edited the world is, and how edited fashion is, and I am, and what would happen if we were less edited? We have this obsession with certainty and the need to know the outcome of everything. But what if we try to just let it be?”
High-water flares ironed on a knife edge; knit tank dresses, the skirts kicking out in three tiers of fringing; neat navy coats secured by three gold locks in place of buttons down the front; and 1970s floral bias-cut dresses sliced high on one side to reveal trousers in a contrasting print is her answer
Yohji Yamamoto had sex on the mind for spring.Nowfashion
her show of swirling, structured volumes and red leather, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons said she had been thinking of “blood and roses, but not a pretty rose. Everyone feels so heavy about things these days, I wanted to do roses in a more profound way.”
There were slouchy silk trouser suits in
Haider Ackermann’s collection. Nowfashion
Crimson strips of leather dripped from trench coats, whorls of frills in silk and silk formed 2 curving spheres on the upper body and legs, a coat of tubular swirls had been stippled by splatter as well as hoop skirts were basket-woven from chiffon. For sanctuary from it all there were significantly hooded capes, and the internet result wasn’t Carrie in the prom, but rather the floral at the end of a gun. Within gore, Ms. Kawakubo experienced found grace.
As it occurred, ruffles also played a significant part in Haider Ackermann’s collection, though it was the bittersweet symphony of a various kind, from the dove grey chiffon dusters, insubstantial being an English fog, to the lazy silk trouser suits within ballet-shoe pink and washed-out army green halter surfaces belted into shape using their edges curving sinuously upward and around, often balance by the addition of white-colored vinyl pants or ultra-mini skorts. And they showed up once again in various forms in Jun Takahashi’s Undercover show, the tour de force associated with Swan Lake storytelling within 51 looks.
It started with sugar-sweet crinoline Change dresses that segued in to tutus, milkmaids in tree-trunk striated moiré skirts as well as forest green and white-colored tops, and principessas within neat little frocks along with sporting scenes from Hieronymus Bosch’s “The Garden associated with Earthly Delights, ” after that to biker jackets on top of full tulle skirts along with prints of many feathers, as well as ended with an all-black ebony-winged motorcycle gang.
Oh, as well as thrown in the middle there was several candy-colored trenches and anoraks and other sorts of protective greatcoats with cameo inserts associated with moving video screens within the chest or sleeves, simply because, well … life is a movie? Whatever the answer, it was amazing.
Also relevant: Who can truly dispute the fact that in the limitless battle between Odile as well as Odette, the black swan is currently winning?
Meanwhile, Yohji Yamamoto had sex within the mind (well, it is the everlasting subject) and negligee gowns on the runway, layered 1 atop the other and slipping off the body, not to mention filigree knits (good) and precious metal leather (discordant). And in a selection based almost entirely upon geometry, Junya Watanabe used Kandinsky’s color theory, that paired form and the psychological associations of color, as well as tested it on clothing. Or at least their simalcrums.
Groups were flattened, plasticized, split and Crayola-bright; cut up as well as reconfigured into a shift made from three-dimensional diamonds; combined with thready stripes and T-shirts imprinted à la jean coat; and reformatted into triangles and hexagons and parallelograms, one form fracturing in to the other in a kaleidoscope associated with shifting shapes.
View the original article here
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