Thursday, October 30, 2014

Eric Wilson’s Front Row Diary: Miley Causes a Commotion, While Elsewhere Everything Lines Up Neatly





Eric Wilson is InStyle’s Fashion News Director. Sit front row at Style Week with him by following him on Twitter (@EricWilsonSays) and Instagram.

Celebs are back in big numbers at New York Fashion Week, like at Manager, the women’s collection designed by Jason Wu, now in his second season, wherever Justin Theroux, Zoe Saldana and Kate Bosworth were brought to their chairs in a very orderly manner shortly before the lights went up. Compare this towards the Jeremy Scott show an hour earlier on Wednesday, where Miley Cyrus entered through backstage, caused a commotion, returned backstage, stuck her tongue out, triggered another commotion, took her seat for the show and then joined the designer in order to walk the runway when he took his bow (pictured, above).

Boss as well as Scott are very different brands, you see, and how they go about their business reflects a little bit of their design aesthetic, as well. Boss, since Wu took on the collection, is all about tailoring that does not deny a woman’s sexuality, but is still dignified enough for your workplace. In fact , for spring, the designer barely showed a suit at all, replacing associated with a range of utilitarian tops, from the body-hugging to the boxy uniform. His little sleeveless dresses and some coats bore a graphic technical print that suggested stiffness (pictured, below left). Everything lined up neatly.

boss-jeremy-scott
Nothing arranged at all at Scott, whose techno-color and hippie-dippy prints came from a theme associated with “psychedelic jungle, ” with super kookie floral minidresses (pictured, above right) that looked as if the were made from shower curtain fabric, and bath slides with teddy bear faces attached. Believe it or not, Cyrus designed the jewelry, or even art, as she dubbed it, assemblage necklaces of beads and cannabis leaves, ice cream cones and cigarettes, pacifiers and car air fresheners, items the curators of the Museum of Modern Art are undoubtedly clamoring to get their own hands on at this very moment.

Also taking a bit of a trip this season was Ould - Sui, whose energetic, 1960s rock-tinged collection bore more than a few notes from psychedelic concert posters and lace-dressed fairies of the sort you only find these days in music festivals and Burning Man (pictured, below left). Sprinkle some of which dust over here.

anna-sui-proenza
And Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler closed the night with a superb lineup that confirmed their finesse at reinventing American sportswear, their parkas and argyle knitted garments deconstructed and put back together again. The argyles, in particular, knit or woven (hard to say) with slashes left open to create the pattern, looked as though they were intentionally half finished, with yards of yarn dangling like a lengthy fringe skirt (pictured, above right). Dazzling.

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