It feels like adding a skincare step (and spend) solely for its own sake.
Sali Hughes: 'New toners are wisely rewriting the claims of old and are marketed as an extra skin treatment.' Photograph: Rui Faria for the Guardian
Some thing I never expected in 2014: Estée Lauder, Rodial, Kiehl's, Melvita, Clinique, Trilogy, Antonia Burrell have all launched toners. And i also must admit they're good. I do so grudgingly, because the aversion to traditional toners is based on their being flogged like a necessary way to "remove final traces of cleanser" and "tighten pores", which really is a bottomless crock of tripe. Nothing eliminates cleanser better than water, and any pore-tightening is so extremely short-lived that it's hardly worth the bother.
But the new toners tend to be wisely rewriting the claims of old and are marketed being an extra skin treatment, primarily to soften, condition and moisturizer. And some do this very well. The problem lies in the wasteful application. It can all well and good buying lovely softening ingredients (most are glycerin- and hyaluronic-acid-based, both of which are very beneficial), however why leave half soaking into cotton wool when you might just apply a similar serum with fingertips straight on to the face? It feels like adding a skincare step (and spend) solely for its own sake.
So while some of the new toners do indeed test very well – the Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv (£46) and Antonia Burrell Forest Dew Skin Conditioner (£55. 40) are fabulous on dry skin (I barely needed anything at all afterwards), and the Melvita Roman Chamomile Floral Water (£13) had been very soothing on chapped skin – I doubt I can justify buying them over other skincare. Anyone still enticed should mist toner directly on to skin and give the parched cotton pads a swerve.
• Pretty Honest, by Sali Hughes, is published by Fourth Estate at £22. In order to order a copy for £17, with free UK p&p, visit theguardian. com/bookshop.
Join Sali on Mondays at theguardian.com/fashion
View the original article here
Some thing I never expected in 2014: Estée Lauder, Rodial, Kiehl's, Melvita, Clinique, Trilogy, Antonia Burrell have all launched toners. And i also must admit they're good. I do so grudgingly, because the aversion to traditional toners is based on their being flogged like a necessary way to "remove final traces of cleanser" and "tighten pores", which really is a bottomless crock of tripe. Nothing eliminates cleanser better than water, and any pore-tightening is so extremely short-lived that it's hardly worth the bother.
But the new toners tend to be wisely rewriting the claims of old and are marketed being an extra skin treatment, primarily to soften, condition and moisturizer. And some do this very well. The problem lies in the wasteful application. It can all well and good buying lovely softening ingredients (most are glycerin- and hyaluronic-acid-based, both of which are very beneficial), however why leave half soaking into cotton wool when you might just apply a similar serum with fingertips straight on to the face? It feels like adding a skincare step (and spend) solely for its own sake.
So while some of the new toners do indeed test very well – the Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv (£46) and Antonia Burrell Forest Dew Skin Conditioner (£55. 40) are fabulous on dry skin (I barely needed anything at all afterwards), and the Melvita Roman Chamomile Floral Water (£13) had been very soothing on chapped skin – I doubt I can justify buying them over other skincare. Anyone still enticed should mist toner directly on to skin and give the parched cotton pads a swerve.
• Pretty Honest, by Sali Hughes, is published by Fourth Estate at £22. In order to order a copy for £17, with free UK p&p, visit theguardian. com/bookshop.
Join Sali on Mondays at theguardian.com/fashion
View the original article here
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