Monday, September 29, 2014

Stella McCartney celebrates gentle femininity at Paris fashion week

British designer’s new collection ticked off signature tailoring and motifs while allowing women ‘to have more softness’..............
This sentiment echoes across the spring/summer shows. Phoebe Philo of Céline and Luella Bartley of Marc by Marc Jacobs both namechecked found and borrowed items, praising the appeal of intriguing curiosities in a bright and shiny digital-dominated world.

Stella McCartney laps up the applause from fashion's great and good
Stella McCartney laps up the applause from fashion’s great and good. 
Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images


It was a theme at other Monday shows too. Sacai, the cult label designed by Chitose Abe, has long created clothes that fuse unlikely elements together. This season, military was mixed with lace and print, with chiffon breaking up heavy khaki on bomber jackets and the utilitarian feel of a shirt dress front juxtaposed against a navy lace back.
Giambattista Valli used a montage of fabric feathers, brocade, sequin and embroidery on sweet shift dresses and longer gowns. The fact that Alamuddin chose to wear Valli for her first public appearance since her Saturday wedding points to a rising star.
McCartney’s label, meanwhile, has a set of qualities similar to her collection: it trades on a lightness of spirit but is backed by steel. The company is majority owned by Kering, the luxury conglomerate that also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. While Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent is indisputably the group’s current commercial star, with revenue up 27% in the first quarter of 2014, McCartney’s brand is playing its part. Grouped with other smaller brands, such as Alexander McQueen, revenue was up 8% in the same period.

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