London Fashion Week Morning Report, Day 2
The scene outside Somerset House. Facundo Arrizabalaga/European Pressphoto Agency
Wait, you ask—what happened to Day 1?
Many editors and buyers straggle late into London Fashion Week, generally considered a more mellow undertaking than the others. Those from New York would have to get a red-eye straight from the Marc Jacobs show to make it in time, and most people after Marc Jacobs have red enough eyes as it is given all the stimuli he throws at them. So the first day is reserved for what is known optimistically in the trade as “emerging talent.”
LONDON FASHION WEEK
Coverage from in and around the London shows.
Today things should perk up considerably, starting at 11 a.m. with Emilia Wickstead, a popular special-occasion designer for British women including Kate Middleton, Alexa Chung and Sally Hawkins, the actress who arguably deserves a Special Achievement Academy Award just for working with both Mike Leigh and Woody Allen. (American women know Ms. Wickstead’s work less well, though our forthcoming Peter Pan, Allison Williams of “Girls,” wore one of her high-necked dresses to this year’s Vanity Fair Oscars party, so who knows, she could fly. She could fly!)
Speaking of the Oscars, Julien Macdonald, a name I hadn’t heard in a while, dressed Taylor Swift for last year’s. When Alexander McQueen left Givenchy to do his own label, Mr. Macdonald was his successor, leaving the French couture house in 2004; he is now a habitué of British reality TV and is showing at the Royal Opera House, so bending inexorably to the high-low zeitgeist, I’ll go.
In the afternoon, there will be lots of the sturdy practical wear that the English do so well, from Hunter Original, whose creative director is Stella McCartney’s husband, Alasdhair Willis, and J.W. Anderson, whose signature, according to official literature, is “things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man.” Also some irreverent knits from Sibling and House of Holland. (It wouldn’t be London Fashion Week if the word “irreverent” weren’t being bandied about, often within spitting distance of a beautiful church.)
And at 8:30 p.m. Marchesa, which has long shown in the Celeste Bartos Forum at the New York Public Library, swagging the great room with chiffon and lining it with gilt wedding chairs, will celebrate a decade in the business by returning for a season to the city where it was founded by Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman, the wife of Harvey Weinstein. Since Ms. Chapman and Mr. Weinstein recently announced plans to revive the house of Charles James, the Met-celebrated designer who was born in England, there might be some synergy in the sequins here.
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